Scratchbuild revolution pdf download

The dreaded shoulder Great DIY article. I was redoing my Figurise-bust and Winning Fumina Don't bother with brass rods, visit your local general store, they Hmmm and just read you can't use dremels on this Sweet tutorial thx mate.

I was planning on doing the exact I think the information is well informed and pretty well covers Thank you! I'm sure you will! None of us are magically This is a really nice Gundam you made here!

Always happy to hear someone found it helpful :. Thank you No problem and thank you very much. Hey, sorry for being late with comment approval, I've been on I think it would be good to add gaia colors Always happy to help :.

Well, I'd avoid heating it too much, as plastic cement and Really appreciate all the info. This site is amazing. This is brilliant.. I was building a cleaver for an Efreet Johannes Paolo Soriano says:. Great tutorial. Just one tip i could suggest regarding below. I use the red one for seam removal and it Interesting, thanks for the insight. It followed that I would experiment in order to develop a method of applying more hair detail to models, such as which hair to use and how to apply it.

In terms of hair selection, I tried several mediums such as railway layout modelling grass and synthetic fibres etc. Then, whilst sitting at my hobby table scratching my head, our Shih Tzu dog arrived at my feet seeking a treat. Immediately, I could see that her hair had the texture that might be in scale with the bust I was working on. One small clipping later at the cost of a treat resulted in a test piece to work on.

The result was just what I was looking for. Now the challenge was to find Military Modelling Vol. My dog had sensed my thinking and kept me at a safe distance regardless of more treats on offer. The answer lay in a visit to a local pet store that had a resident groomer. After showing them the test model piece they were very helpful in collecting free of charge the scrap cuttings from the dogs being groomed.

Now I had an abundant supply of hair of various colours and lengths. This next challenge was how to adhere the hair to the model. After trying several glues, I settled on Hobbycraft tacky glue as this dries clear. The moustache has been changed from the original artwork and sculpting. It has been made longer, just because it could and, if required, can be trimmed off later.

Hair preparation and selection If originating from one source, the hair can be dyed to a suitable colour using standard hair dyes Photo 1.

To control the hair, it needs to be separated into tufts and glued at one end Photo 2. To add variation, the hair can be waved by winding it through a comb. Glue application is added to the existing sculpted hair which provides the guide for hair position and direction. As with all hair application, the lowest layers are added first.

This is the first leap of faith on the painted model where glue is smeared over the pre-painted sculptured hair Photo 5. Measured, cut tufts are applied to the bust Photo 6. Ensure the hair is pressed into the natural partings, as a priority, using a cocktail stick Photo 7. Hair application to the top of the head The front of the top of the hair and the curl on the forehead are layered with hair and glued into position Photo 8. Glue is applied to the parting line on the top of the head Photo 9.

Both sides of the top hair parting line are glued in stages from the front to the rear of the head Photo The top hair nears completion Photo 11 and the top hair is swept back Photo The top hair is swept back to the rear where a rope tie back or similar is used to keep it in a pony-tail Photo Glue is then applied between the forefinger and thumb.

Take a pinch of hair and roll it between the finger and thumb until a rope-like strand has been made. It will eventually form as you continue to roll the mix Photo Photo 15 shows the eyebrow ropes.

The ropes are measured to fit the scale of the bust and glued into position. The eyebrows are shown glued into position Photo The moustache hair tuft is cut to the angle of the cheek creases and left long for later trimming when adhered.

Be sure to press the start of the hair down with a cocktail stick to generate the effect of the hair growing out from the face Photo The side view of the pre-curled hair for the moustache Photo The moustache and front part of the beard have been glued into position before trimming to length Photo The hair is cut to the length required for the beard. Alternatively, the hair can be shaken vigorously in a plastic container to generate the static charge as used in model railway grass Photo Glue is applied to the sculptured beard on the bust.

Be sure to do one side at a time, then under the chin. Chopped hair to the length required is dropped onto the glue area and tamped down gently so as not to flatten the texture Photo The animal pelt The fur pelt uses a selection of hair colours. Hair styling clay can be used to create the taper of the fur tufts Photo The hair is cut to the length suitable for the application.

Here the fur length seems to work at about 10mm. Keep the hair held with tweezers to prevent it from separating Photo Then produce a circular motion around the end to secure the tuft hairs together Photo As with the head hair, begin applying the tufts from the outside bearing in mind the pattern of the animal pelt you wish to create Photo Work around the pelt and build up layers as you progress inwards towards the centre of the pelt Photo The spine of the pelt requires that the tufts are applied in a vertical orientation and then parted to each side with a cocktail stick.

All of the layers are trimmed and further glued to flatten the pelt into a realistic look Photo Where glue was visible in the hair, it was sympathetically tinted with a paint of the same colour and the face was finally finished with glazes Photo What would I have done differently? Make sure that all painting is completed before applying hair, particularly around the face as any minute stray hairs tend to pool the glazes.

Remove the front hair curl from the bust. It is moulded flat to the forehead. The hair technique would provide a more realistic front curl which could be lifted away from the face. It takes patience to generate the effect you are looking for. Keep the hair tufts small as there is a temptation to make them too large to cover the area quickly. I made this mistake on the animal pelt and needed to reapply much of it.

Trim the hair once it has adhered to the model. It seems to require some basic hair dressing skills to get this right. The pelt was layered. Where possible try to press the hair into the grooves with some adhesive. Decant the tacky glue into a small applicator. Experiment with the hair to add your own features to the model.

You can see that I extended the moustache as it was easy to do and gave it some individuality. Image courtesy of Kit Form Services. Matador development The AEC Militant Mk 1 was developed in the early s as a 10 ton 6x4 and 6x6 truck and was supplied in a variety of versions including artillery tractor the subject of this build , cargo, tipper and semitrailer tractor unit.

It was fitted with a In the case of the artillery tractor, this auxiliary gearbox also drove a 7 ton winch fitted with feet of wire rope. Mk 1 Militants were widely used in the British Army well into the s and, when sold off into civilian life, many were used as recovery vehicles.

The Kit This is supplied in the usual sturdy well-packed KFS box and comprises parts in cream resin, in white metal and in brass etch, along with clear and coloured light lenses, strip and rod and a decal sheet. Instructions are supplied as 28 pages in A4 format, split into three sections; No. Painting was carried out in the above order as the build progressed. Chassis Assembly As with any resin kit, the first job was to gently wash all of the parts in warm water and detergent to remove any remaining release agent and then allow to air dry.

Once everything was dry, the engine could be assembled. As the instructions point out, if the engine cover and cab doors are to remain shut much of the engine detail could be left out but, as I intended to cut out the lower engine side cover and have the top engine cover and cab doors open, the engine was fully assembled with injector pipes added using 0.

It was then primed, painted duck egg green and put on one side until later in the build. A start was then made on the chassis assembly by adding the rear suspension mounts and brake chambers to the inside chassis rails. The main and auxiliary gearboxes had levers and pulleys etc. The cross members were then added to the right hand chassis rail making sure that they were correctly orientated.

Once they were set, the left hand chassis rail was glued to the front three cross members. The chassis could then be sprung apart and the winch fitted in position leaving it free to rotate. This was put to one side to return to later. Before fixing the remaining cross members, the rear suspension tube was fitted between the mounts, the last cross members fixed and the chassis set aside to set fully, making sure that it remained square.

Once set, the main and auxiliary gearboxes can be fitted along with the prop shaft between the two. The front axle, hubs and suspension were then assembled, the front hubs swivel on rods through the axle so that the front wheels can be set to any angle.

Once complete, the axle and springs were fixed to the chassis with the prop shaft. Also fitted to the sides of the cross member are the two rear bumpers. These are fashioned from brass etch which is bent to shape around a resin former which is supplied in the kit.

Eight bolt heads were added to each bumper and then both bumpers were added to the chassis. Airline connections and piping were added to the bumpers. Two connections were also added to front of the chassis. At this stage, the front bumper was prepared by fitting the tow pin, fairlead rollers, bumper backing plate and number plate.

The headlights were fitted to the front of the chassis, the bumper was fitted in place temporarily and the centre of the lights marked in pencil on the bottom face of the ABOVE: Chassis in primer. Completed chassis. The road wheels and tyres were temporarily assembled with small blobs of blue-tac and attached to all three axles, held in place with light elastic bands.

With the model placed on a flat surface, the springs can be glued to the suspension tube ensuring that all six wheels remain in contact with the ground. Before removing the wheels two torque bars were fitted between the axles and cross member.

Next job was fitting the rear brake linkages; these are made up from 0. This job requires time, patience and a steady hand but, if the instructions are followed to the letter, everything fits together well. Once the linkages were complete, the air tanks and valves were added to the chassis and pipe work from 0. Before adding the fuel tank and piping, the hand brake and winch brake linkages were added to the outside of the chassis in a similar manner to the rear brake linkages.

Left side of completed lower cab. The light guards could then be made up from etch and plastic rod and, when complete, were fitted with reference to the centre line marked. The guards should slope rearwards from vertical. The body floor and spare wheel carrier base were then test fitted to the chassis to check that no parts or control rods fouled.

The last stage of the chassis build was the spare wheel and carrier. The spare wheel rim was drilled to accept the bolts used to mount the wheel to the star mount. The rim was set aside to be painted later with the remainder of the wheels.

The spare wheel mount itself is built from resin and brass etch parts with a piece of Karaya cable for the winch rope. On the full size vehicle, the wheel is lowered to the ground by loosening a clamp and releasing a locking lever.

The wheel is then rotated anti clockwise viewed from the rear until it reaches the ground where it can be unbolted from the carrier. A two man operation but much easier and safer than lifting the wheel. It was now time to apply some paint so the chassis, spare wheel carrier, wheels and tyres were all given a coat of Halfords grey primer. The wheels and tyres were assembled and fitted, noting that the front and rear wheels are different. The engine, exhaust system and winch rope were fitted and various items such as pulleys and air line connections painted.

Cab Assembly The cab is supplied in two pieces, split at window level, as was the full size truck cab, which could be split for easier air or sea transport. The spare wheel carrier and canopy hoops would also have been removed. As I wanted as much of the engine on view as possible, the first job was to remove the lower engine side cover from the cab left side leaving the top rail in position. Once this was done, the two inner wing sections and horn could be added to the underside. Then the cab was test fitted to the chassis and as the instructions suggested, two areas were trimmed to allow a good fit.

All the brass etch fittings for the cab, grab handles, steps, www. Control levers, junction boxes and foot pedals were added to the cab floor and the air filters and pipe work to the rear of the cab which was then ready for primer and paint. While the paint was drying, the seats and bases, steering column and instruments were prepared and painted, these could then be added along with the engine cover in the raised position. The upper cab required windscreen openers, grab handles and then holes for the rear view mirrors was then ready for paint.

The cab doors were also prepared with inner and outer handles etc. Before joining the two cab halves, the glazing was fitted, the side and rear from 10 thou acetate and the main screens from 5 thou. These were glued in position with Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze which dries clear. The main screens were fixed into the rear of the half etched frames before being fitted to the cab. Once the mesh was cut to size it was placed into the front of the radiator and held in with the frames then the cover plate was fitted to lower part of the radiator.

The completed assembly could then be fitted to the front of the cab. That only left the wipers and light lenses to add. The cab doors were left off until the very end of the build as they were to be left open. Artillery Body Assembly I deviated from the instructions at this point by fitting the rope hoops and cleats to the body sides and tailboard while it was possible to lay them flat BELOW: Test fitting rear mud wings and brackets.

LEFT: Main stowage cage folded ready for fitting. I also added the two rear entry ladders and the tailboard spring bumper. After test fitting the sides, tail and headboard they were glued into position making sure that everything remained square.

The tailboard could be made to move freely on its hinges but as I discovered at the end of the build, the canopy covers the top corners of the tailboard and as it was all painted I decided to leave it closed. The crew seats and storage box were then assembled along with the etch support brackets and once complete and test fitted, were put on one side to be added after painting.

At the same time, the two crew access doors had the door handles and grab handles fitted. As I was leaving the left hand door open this was left off until later and the right hand door glued shut. The mud wings and brackets were fitted next. The wings are a thin moulding and I found that they needed reforming in warm water to get the correct fit.

I also found that the rear brackets were slightly too long and needed shortening. It is important to note at this stage that the body should be test fitted to the chassis at every stage as clearance is tight, even a coat of paint can make all the difference. Next I added the front crew access steps and supports.

The skid chocks, used to anchor the vehicle when winching, are stowed under the rear of the body in a frame. The frames made from brass etch were folded to shape, had four bolt heads added to each to each frame and were then fixed to the underside of the body ensuring that the chocks could be removed. The chocks were also fitted with the securing brackets and placed on one side to await paint.

There are three stowage baskets fitted to the body; one at the front left in front of the wing and two on the headboard at the right hand side. One on the right is for two jerry cans with a smaller one fitted above for an oil container. These were all folded to shape from the brass etch, detailed with bolt heads and hasps for padlocks. The doors were left open on the jerry can and oil can lockers indicating perhaps that the driver was carrying out his daily vehicle inspection.

When fitting the large locker to the left, care should be taken to fit it as far outboard as possible so that it clears the air tanks on the chassis. The jerry cans were fitted with handles and filler necks and placed on one side to be added at the end of the build.

Once everything was fitted, a final check was carried out to make sure that the body located on the chassis without any fouling. When I was happy, it was primed and painted along with the crew seats and lockers then, when dry, the seats and lockers were glued in place. The decals could then be added and the body, spare wheel and carrier and the cab were then glued in position on the chassis leaving only the canopy to complete.

The canopy is supplied in one piece with the hoops moulded in and, once the thin flash left in for strengthening the openings in transit was removed, a decision could be made on whether to have open or closed side and rear sheets. I elected to go for the rolled sheets and these are very realistic with creases and sags moulded in. Once these had been fitted, the canopy was primed and I mixed some Tamiya greens until I came up with a shade that I was happy with.

Once dry, the canopy hoops were brush-painted body colour. These are made from 1 mm wide strips of Solartex and an etched brass buckle. They are quite fiddly to do but are well worth taking time with. Once the straps were fitted, the canopy could be laced up with rope. This needs to be done before the canopy is fitted as there is not enough room to do it afterwards.

After the canopy was glued into position, the rope was gently pulled through, attached to each tie down in turn then tied off at the last hook. After checking the paintwork for any touch up required, only the cab doors and crew door remained to be fixed.

If leaving them open, the attachment points are very small and I was concerned that they would be easily broken off. The crew door on the body was easy. A length of 2mm angle cut to the length of the door, one side glued to the door, the other to the frame and, once painted, it was not noticeable.

The cab doors took a little more thought as there needed to be a visible gap between the A post and the door. In the end, I cut two short lengths of 2mm angle and positioned these behind the hinges, again, once painted they could not be seen.

It only remained to add a check strap to each door from Solartex and the build was complete. Ammo boxes from a KFS set. As always, many pictures can be found on the internet although a lot are of restored vehicles and caution is needed if more modern modifications have been made. Conclusion This is quite a complex kit but if the instructions are followed to the letter and things not rushed it builds into an excellent model. Howard at KFS is always helpful if problems are encountered. The kit contains three sprues of crisply moulded grey hard plastic components to build one of two different vehicles based on the T chassis.

In all honesty I cannot claim any credit for this idea, I have seen people build models from the Games Workshop 40k range of kits, you know the sort of thing, large futuristic war machines armed to the teeth with multiple weapons. Rather than being restricted to one fixed weapons option, some enterprising modellers have discovered that by adding small magnets to their models enables them to swap out different weapon configurations at will. The more I looked at the instructions and design of the kit components I began to realize that there may be a way for me to apply this technique to my model and build both the SU and SU options.

This sprue contains the two different fighting compartments, gun and gun mantlet components for both the tank destroyer and assault gun options available for this model.

Childs play While waiting for my small magnets to arrive I happened to be hunting through my toolbox for something or other and I came across some Lego bricks. I began to think that there might well be another way to achieve my goal of having both SU85 and SU options from the one kit, but without the need of magnets.

I could use the Lego instead! So I began to test fit the Lego bricks in combination with the kit parts. The idea was to permanently fix the blue brick to the lower hull directly under the fighting compartments, and one of the square white bricks would be fixed to the roof of each fighting compartment.

In theory, if the join between Lego and kit plastic was strong enough, and the positioning of the bricks was accurate enough, then the bricks would still be able to connect with each other. Thus you would be able to push fit either the SU or SU fighting compartment onto the lower hull.

The friction fit between the Lego bricks would be strong enough to hold either of the fighting compartments in place while still allowing them to be removed again. This is how I put the theory into practice. The white brick must NOT be glued to the blue brick it sits on.

Then I made sure that the area of the hull where the blue brick was to be permanently attached was clean and flat. This surface was slightly roughened with the help of a file to give a bit of a key for the adhesive bond to. I choice to use Araldite Ultra, a strong two-part epoxy glue.

I mixed up a suitable amount of the Araldite Ultra and placed some on the top of the hull where the blue brick was going to be placed, then holding onto the white brick I applied more of the Araldite glue to the base of the blue brick, taking great care not to get any near the join between the two bricks.

Again making use of the white brick as a handle I push the blue rectangular brick down onto the model. After a final check that the blue brick was in the correct position it was held in place with two plastic clamps see photo while the Araldite set.

The next day when I was happy that the blue brick was fix to the model I checked to see that the white brick would still come off, and much to my relief it did. I pushed the white brick back in place again, and mixed more Araldite. This time a generous amount of the adhesive was flooded into one of the upturned fighting compartments to pool on the inside of the roof.

I added a little more of the Araldite to the very top of the white brick, again taking care not to get glue near the join between the two bricks. I then pushed the fighting compartment down into position on the model and on top of white brick.

This final sprue contains inner road wheels, parts to make four together the whole assembly spare external fuel drums, and other items to detail the upper hull.

Note that both have had their hatches permanently fixed in place. Gun barrels and mantlet were deliberately left off to be installed at a later stage of construction. The thin blue Lego brick is being clamped in place while the Araldite epoxy glue curers see text for further explanation. Rubicon has made the locating points on the base of fighting compartment a good fit so no extra clamping was needed.

I was keen to see if my idea had worked. I gently prised the fighting compartment away from the hull, and eureka, it worked! So using another white Lego brick, and mixing more Araldite, I repeated the process for the second fighting compartment option. A second brick would be permanently fixed inside the SU fighting compartment too. This gap decreases if the fighting compartment is pushed fully home, and is virtually invisible when viewed from above! I decided that I would not use an airbrush, and thought that this model would prove an ideal opportunity to see what sort of result I could get from a commercially available spray can.

This colour in its premixed spray can form is ideal for those who want to paint several models quickly, efficiently, and get them onto the wargaming table with a minimum of fuss.

Dodging the December rain clouds, and on a day that was probably far too cold for spray painting, I took the subassemblies, left and right track runs, both fighting compartment options, and the hull out into the garden to paint. The Tankovy Green spray paint went on a treat, after three light coats the five subassemblies all had a good solid coat of colour without any loss of detail. The painted parts were set aside to thoroughly dry. When I next had the time to carry on with the project the paint was most definitely dry, and it was then that I noticed that two of the four cylindrical external fuel drums had small but visible join lines.

I was too lazy to attempt to fill them at this late stage so I left them as they were. I should have paid more attention during construction. My bad, lesson learnt! I decided that this would be fixed by giving the whole lot some very dilute washes of black. This worked and the thin black wash was encouraged to run into any panel lines and recesses, it also had the added effect of toning the base green colour down quite a bit.

With the exception of the Flames of War Tankovy Green all other colours applied to the model were just paints I had to hand, and not specially purchased of the build. All the paints used on the model were acrylic colours from the Lifecolour, and Citadel Games Workshop paint ranges. Tamiya acrylic paint thinner XA was used to dilute and blend the various colours. The Tamiya thinner seemed to work quite happily with both the Lifecolour and Citadel paints, and enabled me to mix the colours from one range into another without problem.

The Abaddon Black was also used to paint the rubber on the main road wheels; the same black paint was used to fill the grills on the engine deck. Lifecolour UA Vegetable Origin Damp yellow was used to brake up the base green colour as rainwater stains down the flat sides of both versions of the vehicle. The blue Lego brick was masked off prior to painting to ensure that the fit between it and the white bricks inside each fighting compartment was not compromised.

Mud in an instant! I wanted my model to look like it been in combat or at least driven to it, so for some reason which escapes me now, I thought that mixing some of my Nescafe instant coffee granules other brands are available!

The theory was sound, at least in my mind, so some of the coffee granules were mixed with Lifecolour Blackened UA and Dark umber Hemp UA to create a sort of lumpy dark brown sludge. I was initially happy with this mix and with the help of an old brush started to daub it onto the tracks and wheels.

The coffee seemed to be a bit more absorbent than I first anticipated so some of the Tamiya acrylic thinner was added to the mix. I swapped the old brush for a bit of foam packaging to apply the rest of the caffeine mud. Oh well if you like coffee the model smells good at least! Decals www. Conclusion This has been another hassle free and enjoyable build.

I have had a lot of fun putting this kit together, and am pleased with the end result. The simple methods of construction, coupled with precise fit of the thoughtfully designed parts ensure a quick build.

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Back by Request! The certificate will be emailed to you as a PDF file, which you can then send to the recipient, or printed out and personally given as a gift. Instructions on redeeming plans are contained on the gift certificate. This is a perfect gift for a model railroader or model builder who enjoys either building from scratch or cardstock. Choose from over 75 plans in one of five available scales. Not all plans are available in G scale.

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